Baccy Pipes

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Repairing a Broken Shank on an LHS Park Lane DeLuxe — Lovat 12

This is a pipe i sent to Steve at  rebornpipes who did a wonderful repair on it so i thought i would share it here,

Here is a link to original post…….Repairing a Broken Shank on an LHS Park Lane DeLuxe — Lovat 12

Repairing a Broken Shank on an LHS Park Lane DeLuxe — Lovat 12

I came home from a two-week work trip to Berlin and Budapest to find a package from Troy Wilburn waiting for me. It contained a beautiful little LHS Park Lane De Luxe Lovat shape 12 that we had been speaking about before the trip. I am a sucker for LHS pipes and really like the Park Lane series as they have a quiet elegance about them. The shank on this one had broken near the bowl. Fortunately it was a clean break and not splintered or chipped. The repair on these has become pretty straight forward for me. I have learned a few tricks in joining the parts of a broken shank together from the Frankenpipes that I have crafted. That was their purpose and their schooling has paid off on quite a few of these shank repairs for me. The Park Lane had a Bakelite stem (at least I think it is Bakelite as it feels and acts different from Cumberland). The next two photos show the snapped shank.LHS1

LHS2Just as I suspected I had a piece of brass tubing that was the perfect size and fit for the repair. I used a file to cut grooves into the tube and to roughen the surface for the glue to have something to hold onto when I glued it in the shank.LHS3

LHS4I cleaned out the airway on both sides of the broken shank to remove debris and to give a good clean surface for the glue to bond with. To check the size and the fit of the tube in the two parts of the shank I inserted it in the bowl end of the break and then twisted the shank end onto it. The fit was perfect and once glued the repair should be solid.LHS5I mixed some epoxy and applied it to the metal tube being careful to not get any inside of the airway. I inserted it into the bowl side of the break. I left slightly over half of the tube extending so that when I put the shank piece in place there would be enough of the metal tube to strengthen the repair on that end.LHS6

LHS7When the epoxy set and the tube was solidly in place I painted some more of the epoxy on the opposite end of the tube and a little on the briar surface of each side of the break. I have learned not to overdo the glue on the briar as it is a pain to remove from the wood when it dries. I twisted the shank piece in place, lined it up and pressed it in place against the bowl side. I held it firmly until the quick set epoxy set and that portion of the repair was finished.LHS8



LHS11I pushed some fine briar dust into the small space that remained around the surface of the crack and then filled it with clear super glue. I applied it with the point of a dental pick so as not to get too much glue on the briar.LHS12



LHS15I sanded the repaired area carefully with a folded piece of worn 220 grit sandpaper to remove the excess glue and briar dust from the patch. Then I sanded with a fine grit sanding sponge to remove the scratches. I used a medium brown coloured stain pen to touch up the sanded area around the patch. I cleaned out the shank with a pipe cleaner to make sure that there was no glue in the tube.LHS16



LHS19The stem was slightly under clocked. I heated the stinger with a lighter until the glue in the stem softened and then carefully screwed it into the shank while holding the shank. I was able to align it perfectly with the shank.LHS20With that completed, the repairs to the pipe were finished. The stem was in the right position. The cracked shank repaired and strengthened with an inner tube. All that remained was to clean up the surface of the pipe and give it a coat of stain to blend in the sanded areas around the repairs. I also needed to do some work on the stem with micromesh to raise the shine and polish the Bakelite. (I rarely use the buffer on these older LHS stems as I do not want to risk it. I would rather polish them by hand than damage them.)LHS21

LHS22I wiped the bowl and shank down with alcohol on a cotton pad to remove the grit and grime on the surface of the bowl and to remove the remaining finish.LHS23

LHS24I cleaned off the tars on the stinger with 0000 steel wool. I wet sanded the stem with 1500-2400 grit micromesh sanding pads and then rubbed it down with Obsidian Oil. I continued to dry sand the stem with 3200-4000 grit pads and then gave it another coat of oil. I finished with the final three grits of micromesh – 6000-12000 – and gave it a final coat of Obsidian Oil. Once the oil dried I gave the stem some coats of Paragon Wax and hand buffed it with a microfibre cloth.LHS25


LHS27I gave the bowl a rubdown with some olive oil and then buffed it out. I touched up the light areas of the stain on the repaired shank with a dark stain pen and then rubbed a little more oil onto the shank. I buffed the pipe with Blue Diamond and then gave it several coats of carnauba wax. I buffed it with a clean flannel buff and then hand buffed it with the microfibre cloth. The finished pipe is shown below. I am hoping to put it in the mail later today or tomorrow to get it back to Troy.LHS28

LHS29There was some light damage to the rim surface. I decided to leave it alone as it was not enough to top the bowl. It gives character to this old pipe.




Early Van Roy Arista “Selected Briar” Ajustamatic Refurbish

I picked up this early Van Roy Arista off Ebay .

Van Roy pipes started around 1944-1945 .They were headquartered out of the Empire State building. They were the first pipe to use the Adjustamatic stem. HL&T (Dr.Grabow ) purchased the company around 1949 and used the Adjustamatic exclusively on the Dr. Grabow pipes. All Van Roy’s after that used a push stem ,so Van Roy Adjustamatics were only made for around 4- 5 years. I could not find out if  Van Roy had their own pipe manufacturing facility . Most likely they had production of the pipes made by different pipe makers like Mastercraft did.
This one i believe is a very early model made at the end of the war, because its a non imported briar pipe.They must have started production before imported brair was again available to American pipe makers. I would guess my pipe is no later than early 1946.
I wasn’t sure what kind of wood it was in the beginning ( I’m still not 100% sure). I sure do not think it is a mountain laurel pipe. I have a few of Dr.Grabow and Medico mountain laurel pipes and they are devoid of any kind of grain . All i have used painted on grain to compensate for the bland wood. It is  also different than the mission briar that Kaywoodie used during the war. I noticed that the Van Roy is a harder material than laurel Dr.Grabow used .
I did some research and found out that a pipe  called Raskassa used the same kind of wood from the looks of them. The pipes were distributed by a man named Otto Sevic. The pipes are likely made from rhododendron. D&P pipes also used rhododendron along with mountain laurel in pipe production.
I think  maybe Otto Sevic may have headed up production of the Van Roy’s prior to the re introduction of briar back to the American pipe makers . I found these pictures of a Raskassapipe and the grain and color is similar.

It seems after mountain laurel and rhododendron was not used anymore in pipe production in the United States that Mr. Sevic  disappear’s in the pipe world as i could not find any more mention of him.

Here is a interesting article i found about mountain laurel ,rhododendron , manzanita  and wild lilac being used in pipe production because of the war. Published in 1942……………….,4449019&hl=en

Wild Lilac as a wood used in pipe production is one I had not heard or read of  before finding this article.

Also this one dated Aug .10 1942 in a Pittsburgh  Post Gazette paper,4203336

On to the refurbish of the Van Roy,

I began work on the pipe with a good cleaning and oiling of the Adjustamatic stem. The pipe was actually pretty clean interior wise. I had never seen a pipe so lightly smoked, but yet so banged up on the outside. The rim, front of bowl and top of shank had many deep dings.
I gave the rim a topping  with 220 grit then moved up to 500-1000 grit. I sanded a beveled edge on the inner rim to remove some bad burn marks as well.

After the topping i rounded the outer rim slightly with 800-1200 to give it a factory look.

I mixed up some  RIT medium brown dye with a touch of red , I gave the rim a couple of light coats then sanded it off with 1200 grit to contrast the grain. Then i applied a few coats with a Q-tip til i got the desired shade i was looking for.

After the dye had dried i wiped the outside rim edge with mineral oil and sanded the stain line with 2500 grit to blend it in with the factory stain.
I then tackled the many dings on the bowl. I wrapped the bowl in a damp cloth and rolled it over a hot iron several times. I managed to steam out most of the dings and made the rest not very noticeable.
I then went over the bowl with some mineral oil and 2500 to further eliminate as many of the dings and dents as possible.
I gave the stem a good wet sanding with 500 -2500 grit and cleaned the metal tenon  and stinger with 000 steel wool.

The pipe is now ready for buff and wax .

Finished pipe.
I want to point out that this is a wide and large bowl . Almost pot like . It it just a hair under a 1 inch wide chamber.

I would also like to mention that older Van Roy’s use the Fleur De Lis symbol on them. From the pictures I’ve seen all the non imported briar have them on the shank . When production switched to imported briar they seem to have moved the Fleur De Lis symbol to the stem. So if you see one stamped on the shank, it is most likely a alternative briar pipe.
 I gave the Van Roy a carbon bowl coating. The Adjustamtic stem does not work as smooth as a Dr. Grabow version . Its has a stiff feeling even after being oiled. Dr.Grabow must have refined and upgraded the adjusto mechanism.
The pipe actually smokes pretty well , better than i thought it would. The Dr.Grabow and Medico mountain laurel’s i have are not that good .They smoke very hot and have a odd taste to me. This one though does not . The large bowl took both of these large flakes to fill it , so i had a very long first smoke in it.
I think the wide chamber ,bowl coating and Bold Kentucky being a slow , cool smoking tobacco helped the pipe to smoke as cool as it did . A good quality rhododendron “briar” might also be part of it too. I have to say I’m impressed with the performance of the Van Roy. I was expecting a more disappointing experience. Rhododendron (if that what it actually is)  to me seems a superior pipe material than the  mountain laurel.


Refurbish and Preservation of a E.Wilke Poker

This is a old E.Wilke poker I picked up off Ebay , I have been looking for one for a while to add to my American poker collection.I saw a straight stem one on Ebay a couple of month’s ago but passed on it as it had a horizontal crack almost all the way around it about a quarter way from the top of the rim.

Other than being dirty and a little banged up the only issue i found was the stem was really loose (fall out loose) and just did not fit just right. I suspect this is not the original stem but will have to work with it as I do not have a spare one that even comes close to fitting this pipe.

Other than knowing Wilke was a very good pipe maker from New York City I knew little about them. The last couple of days i have read and researched quite a bit on Wilke.

Here is what is listed on pipedia
Edwin Wilke founded Wilke Tobacco in 1872. As the story goes, according to a 1937 New York World-Telegram article, he had no sons, and so he taught his two daughters, Anna and Louisa Wilke, how to make pipes and blend tobacco, and by his death in 1930 they were well versed in both trades, and adamant about only using quality briar. In 1950, when they were the focus of an article in the Sarasota Herald-Tribune, they were the only women pipe makers in the United States, and had sold pipes to Herbert hoover, Lord Halifax, John Steinbeck and others. The sisters also blended pipe tobacco and repaired pipes. They did not, however, smoke pipes.

Wilke prided itself on “unpainted pipes”, and promised that only Macedonian briar was used, without paint, varnish, plug, or putty of any kind. As of 1950, some of their pipes were selling for up to $100.00, or just under $1,000.00 dollars today. By the release of a 1970 New York Magazine highlight of the shop, that claim had risen to $500.00, or over $3,000.00 today.

The Wilke Pipe Shop was located for decades on Madison Avenue in New York City, and in the 1970s opened a satellite store in the famed Wanamaker’s department store in Philadelphia, selling Wilke pipes made by Steven Johnson. In 1983, the brand was purchased by pipe maker Elliott Nachwalter and his wife, Carole Burns. They continued to operate the Madison Avenue store until the early 1990’s, at which point the couple moved to Vermont and Pipeworks & Wilke was born as a mail-order business.

Even after the marriage of Burns and Nachwalter, the business continued, with Nachwalter selling pipes in Manchester, New Hampshire, and Burns blending tobacco in Montpelier, Vermont. Burns continues to keep the 125 year old brand alive at
The people who run the business now does not make pipes.

I found this neat 1950 newspaper write up about the Wilke sister’s.…BAJ&pg=4768,1103398&hl=en

After reading on the web  what a previous employee and customer’s who shopped at the New York shop said  that not only did the Wilke pipes come without stain or finish but were void of any wax.They most likely just got rubbed with oil and that’s it. One thing i noticed about the pipe when i got it was the lack of any finish or wax. I was thinking it had just rubbed off from years of handling and use. It seems it never had any to begin with.

There was a few pipe makers that carved pipes for the Wilke sister’s. Most of them from the NYC/NJ/CT area such as Barclay-Rex, Connoisseur etc..
The most prized pipes were carved by Stephen Johnson and Italian pipe maker Joe Cortegani.
After the sisters sold the business sometime in the 1980’s the pipes were mass produced by Weber and GBD , they were never the same quality.

I also found out that Wilke pipes made before the 1950’s had E.Wilke  NYC in one line on the shank, 1950’s  and after they were stamped E.Wilke over NYC making mine a 1950’s or newer pipe.

On to the refurb

I gave the pipe a basic cleaning of the shank and the old cake came out easily.

I gave the rim a and bowl a good cleaning as described in my previous post about cleaning heavy rim cake.…3/easy-removal-of-heavy-rim-cake/

As i was working on this pipe I was thinking that mine was a later 1980’s Weber , but something was not right about that. All the Weber pokers I’ve seen and held have a heel at the shank and bottom of bowl. This was a flat bottom poker. The bowl on this poker also is taller than any Weber poker i have seen or own. I know its not a GBD as their pokers have a higher heel and a different bowl shape.

Then it hit me that I think I might know who made this pipe. I went digging through my pokers and found my Ben Rodgers pipe that I picked up from Dave Whitney. They look really similar.

The heigt of the bowl and the shape of the heel matches just about perfect. Little is know about Ben Rodgers other than he was a pipe maker from NYC. So it fits that he is likely the maker.

Back to the pipe .

The rim was kinda beat as seen after the cleaning.The previous owner must have been left handed because the inner rim has some briar loss from the smoker holding a lighter on the same spot on the left side of the briar.

So I topped the pipe with some 500 grit and mineral oil . I then sanded the rim from 600 grit to 1200 the same way.

After topping the rim it was lighter than the rest of the pipe . The pipe had taken on a dark patina from years of smoking and a lack of finish. So i cleaned the rim with 91% alcohol to remove the oil and stained it a few times  with a q-tip and black coffee. Allowing it to dry between coats.

After drying i gave the rest of the pipe a sanding with 1200 grit and mineral oil to remove some slight dings and rough edges.

After a soak and scrub in alcohol i soaked the stem in Oxy Clean , then removed it scrubbed it with alcohol again. I then gave it a good sanding with 600 on up to 2500 grit.

After the sanding was done i tackled the loose fitting of the stem . I did the old loose stem fix for a cob on it. I heated the tenon then stuck in a tapered pair of small needle nose pliar’s to expand the end of the tenon. Next it got a coat of bee’s wax.

The stem fits pretty snug now, * After the pipe was finished it did loosen back up some so i wiped a thin coat of CA glue over the tenon and gave it another coat of bee’s wax. That seemed to fix it better and has not become loose again. *

I then gave the stem a good buff and wax , being careful to stay off the briar.

Staying with how the Wilkes pipes were sold with no finish i gave the pipe one last going over with 000 steel wool and one last coat of mineral oil.

I though about applying wax to it but decided to try it original. I can always add wax later. I may end up getting a new stem for it as well.

Finished (well sort of) pipe. You can certainly add coats of wax on the Wilke you restore, I just personally decided to leave mine more natural.

After finishing the pipe i smoked a couple of bowls of Carter Hall in it. Its a very cool smoking pipe .The bowl barely got warm. It must be a combination of very good briar and lack of any wax or finish.The draw is perfect. I then loaded it up with some Bold Kentucky . I can see why Wilke pipes are coveted by people who own them because they are fine smoking pipes.


Quick & Easy Removal Of Heavy Rim Cake

I thought i would post my simple way to clean up heavy rim cake . Its the fastest and easiest way I’ve found.

This is a old  E.Wilke poker I’m working on .

I will use Oxy Clean as my cleaner because its a natural finish and I’m not worried about preserving a factory stain finish. I will soak the stem of this pipe in it as well ,so i will be killing two birds with one stone.

If i was preserving a pipe and wanted to be careful i would substitute Oxy Clean for a mild detergent and water such as a drop of dawn in warm water, or just water. It will remove the cake  slower but will do just as well with out removing stain . Oxy Clean will strip stain and finish if applied like i will be  doing on this rim. If you do this to a stained pipe you will have to match the color and stain the rim.

I added water to the Oxy Clean and heated in a microwave for 1 minute.

I then cut me a piece of green Scotch Brite pad about 3-4 inches square. If it was light cake you could use steel wool but for heavy cake on the rim i like to use a green pad.

I then dip the green pad in the warm Oxy Clean and place it on a old rag .

I have already removed most of the cake out of the bowl and cleaned the shank.

Take the pipe and turn it upside down like you are topping it with sandpaper.This will also keep the water and Oxy Clean from soaking into the bowl chamber.
Move the pipe in circles and back and forth with light to medium pressure.

This is after about 30 seconds and its almost gone.

I flip it over ( the pad ) and do the rest of the rim with the clean side of pad.

After another 30 seconds or less its all gone.

You can rinse the pad in warm soapy water and re use it a few more times as well.

Ill go ahead and clean up rest of the bowl.

I dipped a paper towel in the Oxy Clean (you can also use a cotton ball but i was out of them) and wipe the rest of bowl to clean off all the dirt and grime . If this had a stain of heavy finish and wanted to strip and  remove it i would use a green pad dipped in Oxy Clean , give it a good scrubbing a few times. The take some sandpaper and hit any stubborn spots that the Oxy Clean did not remove. I usually dip the wet/dry paper in the Oxy Clean as well while I’m sanding the spots . If there is any.

I then spray some water and mild detergent mix with a spray bottle on a paper towel. You can substitute this step with alcohol if you prefer.

I go over the pipe a few times til the paper towel is clean after wiping the bowl.

After letting the pipe dry, i wipe it with some mineral oil. You can use olive oil or some other wood oil product. I like Mineral oil because its cheap, odorless,colorless and tasteless. It is also natural and does not have the danger of turning rancid like a food product.

Let the oil soak in the wood for about 10-15 minutes and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

The pipe needs more work and i will likely end up topping it slightly and sanding the rest of the bowl some . I’m just using this pipe as a example.

The pipe has not been sanded none and just cleaned and oiled . I have not taken anything away from the pipe or damaged any stamping’s etc…

If this pipe was in really nice shape or wanted to preserve it as is, it would just need a light wax .

In less than a hour (including the reaming and cleaning of the shank ) the bowl of this pipe went from this  ,

To this.

This is what works for me . Maybe it will work for you ,or then again maybe not. Of course you can adjust and tweak my method to make it better or easier for you if you so desire.


Hearth & Home – Stogie (Signature Series)

I’m a fan of cigar leaf blends and have tried most of the non latakia blends on the market but for some expensive European ones. With a little patience the Hearth and Home Stogie is one of the best of them all.

download (225x225)

Tin Description: Here’s a great transition for the cigar smoker who wants to smoke a pipe but would miss the flavor of a cigar, or for the pipe smoker who enjoys the occasional stogie. The blend uses a blend of burleys (including dark-fired), some Virginia and Oriental, a touch of unflavored Black Cavendish and Perique and Maduro cigar leaf for a mildly sweet, earthy flavor.

Burley.Dark Fired Kentucky,Virginia,Oriental, Unflavored Cavendish,Perique and Maduro……whats not to like about that!

It does have a cigar type taste and feel to it but you know you are smoking a pipe tobacco.

There is some great reviews of it

My favorite review is of course JimInks. Again he nails the review of it to me and i could not write it any better.

Reviewed by JimInks

The very tasty maduro cigar leaf is the same used in H&H’s Virginia Spice, and is ably complimented by the unflavored black cavendish in regard to sweetness. The perique is more plum than pepper, and interacts nicely with the Oriental/Turkish, which, while a minor player, provides a necessary bass flavor hit. The burleys are toasty and a little nutty. The Virginia is lightly sweet and grassy, acting as a base for the other components to play off. A well blended smoke with some complexity that burns well with no dottle, no harsh spots, and no cigarette or ashy notes. It’s a three star plus mixture.


One thing that is not listed in the reviews that i came across , it does has some bite fresh from the tin. Well quite a bit of bite to me and I’m not  that easily bitten by tobacco.

After letting the 8 oz tin breathe for a bit it did help the bite and mellowed out some . I did remove it from the tin and cellared it in a large glass jar. Every so often i break into it and try a bowl or two. The more age the better and smoother it has become.

Yesterday i  tried a bowl after about six months in the jar and it has really become a much better blend . The bite has all but gone away and has become a superb cigar blend . I recommend some aging of at least 6 months on Hearth and Homes Stogie if you are interested in trying it .

If most cigars tasted this good i would smoke them all the time.

*Update 3/4/2016 ….. I just tried to order some more and have been informed from the people at Pipes and Cigars that this blend has been discontinued I’m sad to say.*


Simple Cleanup On A Dr.Grabow El Dorado #69 Billiard

I have been looking for a nice El Dorado to add to my Dr. Grabow collection for a while, when this #69 large billiard showed up on Ebay. I bid and actually won it, i thought at a bargain price. The pipe was in excellent condition and the stamping’s were crisp. The El Dorado model does not show up often. They are a pretty scarce pipes.

The El Dorado was introduced around 1960-61. It was a top of the line Dr.Grabow. All used grade A full grain briar and were hand finished ,hand buffed . At a time when the average American worker was making between .65-1.50 a hour the El Dorado was priced at 10.00 dollars (the ad pictured is a later one from about the mid to late 1960’s).

Because of the price not many were sold. A former employee for Dr.Grabow said that they were lucky to sale a dozen a month most of the time. The El Dorado line lasted into the 1990’s but most sold were old stock from the production of them during the 1960s.

I did not have to do much to the pipe but a basic cleaning. There was quite a bit of cake in it, but it flaked out rather easy. Sandpaper easily removed what was left.The shank and stem was really clean and took little effort .
There may not have been much rim cake and scorching but what was there was stubborn. I had to do some long and delicate scrubbing and wet sanding with mineral oil to get it off and not remove the finish.

I gave stem a light sanding and cleaned up the metal tenon and stinger.

A rub down with mineral oil and quick inspection , she is ready for some buff and wax.

Finished pipe.

The pipe is also stamped with the Adjustamatic & on other side of shank . Shape number 69 on bottom.
Dr.Grabow at one time made as good as a pipe as any factory pipe makers anywhere. To label them all as cheap drug store pipes has always seemed unfair to me.

The pipe is a extremely fine smoker.


Preserving a 1930’s Kaywoodie Drinkless #7711 Large Billiard

I stopped at a antique store recently in North Carolina on a road trip.
I asked the old couple who owned the store if they had any pipes. The older man said yes he had a few that he picked up at a estate auction not long ago .
There was a couple of old KBB Yello Boles they were nice but not any shapes i wanted . He had a couple of Lee Limited scoop pipes , not a shape i care for and he wanted too much for them. Then i spied a nice old Kaywoodie large billiard. I then noticed it was a four digit ( jackpot! ) . I was hopping it was a Supergrain but instead a VERY NICE original Drinkless #7711.The stamping’s were like new !
As i looked it over the man informed me it was a old pipe from around the 50’s or 60’s . I kept it to myself that hes was about 20 to 30 + years off, in fact i said “That old. really?” he said he would take 25 dollars for it , i put it back and said” nah its too dirty and has some dents in it.” He said “make me a offer” , i said “10 bucks”. He came back with 15 and i said “deal”.

Here is the #7711 as purchased .

The pipe was in such nice original and unmolested condition that i wanted to preserve it all i could. Its not every day you see a Kaywoodie four digit, four holer like this. Most are over priced , beat all too hell or someone has buffed all the stamping’s and history off of it.
I started with a light cleaning of the little cake that was in it. A quick cleaning of the shank Scrubbed off the rim char and wiped down the bowl with a damp cotton square with mild detergent. The stem was put in for a soak in 91% alcohol.

I heated up a knife blade and steamed the dents out best i could using a damp piece of old t-shirt.

Gave the whole bowl a sanding with some worn 2000 grit and mineral oil. I did not touch the stamping’s at all with the sandpaper or sand hard enough to burn through the factory finish.

While the oil is drying on the bowl i took the stem out and gave it a good scrubbing. Most of the surface oxidation came off so i did not think it needed a Oxy Clean bath.

I did however wipe it with mineral oil and took a Bic lighter to it to rid any brown spots that might be lingering.* Being careful around the Clover*

There was a slight tooth mark on the top button that needed some filling and some chatter i sanded with 500 grit.

I sanded back from the button with 600 grit moving up the stem and going finer grit. When i got to the tenon end i was up to 2500 grit for a final sanding of the whole stem .

The four hole stinger and female threads in the shank was gone over with 000 steel wool.

I ran pipe cleaner’s though the shank and stem to rid them of any debri and steel wool shaving’s. I then gave the pipe one more rub down with a cotton square and mineral oil to remove and sanding dust before buff and wax.

I gave stem a quick go over with brown and white tripoli before applying wax to pipe.

Pipe after application of wax.

To be honest this is only the second Kaywoodie screw stem i own. I do own another four digit four holer ( Supergrain 5102 poker) . I have owned a couple of newer three holer’s but did not like them very much and sold or traded them. The four holer’s are a much better smoking pipe to me.
I love the looks and history of Kaywoodie. They have some of the best shapes and quality of any pipe maker there is ( in the time when this pipe was made). If they would have simply made a removable stinger on their screw in stems i would own many ,many, more. I cannot figure out why they never have. One reason i own so many Yello Boles is because they are Kaywoodie shapes with a removable stinger and push stem. That’s just me though. If you own Kaywoodies , like the way they smoke and prize them i mean no offense.

I have smoked a few bowls out of the #7711 since this post and its a great pipe  that i plan to enjoy many more  times in the future.

Til Next Time,

Good Smokes To You.