Baccy Pipes


Early Kaywoodie Relief Grain 76B

I acquired this unrestored Kaywoodie  76B Relief Grain from my friend Shae who runs Vintage Pipes on Etsy. Thank you Shae.

Visit his shop sometime and look around. He has some fine restored pipes and pipe accessories for sale.

This was a  Kaywoodie shape i have in a Super Grain and its a favorite of mine. I wanted to also add one to my sandblast Relief Grain collection.

The pipe other than faded and dirty was in excellent condition.100_1427 (640x298).jpg100_1428 (640x299).jpg100_1431 (640x480).jpg100_1433 (640x303).jpg

When i went to unscrew the stem the metal collar had stuck to the tenon stinger and unscrewed from the pipe. 100_1435 (640x334).jpg

This is a result of sitting uncleaned for a long period of time and or sitting too tight allowing corrosion to build up from moisture left in the pipe. Its a easy fix though.

I was pleased its a early Relief Grain 4 hole stinger model. Relief Grain’s were first introduced in 1947 and still made til present day.Being a 4 hole stinger model puts this pipe most likely between 1947- early 1950’s before Kaywoodie went to the smaller 3 hole stingers. The shape number breaks down as

76B Medium English Billiard                                                 1938-1972

If you notice it has the black clover in white circle like a Flame Grain. I used to wonder why some pipes had this type of clover when they were most widely known as only used on the Flame  Grain model . One day while doing some research i found this comment about it posted by Bill Feuerbach on the Kaywoodie Forums. He is president of SM Frank who owns Kaywoodie pipes.

” All pipes  ( Kaywoodie) prior to 1937 had the white cloverleaf. The Flame Grain line, which came out in 1937 was the first to have the round logo, black inside the white circle and for those with a rock ambera stem, white cloverleaf inside a black circle. After 1937 as new lines got added, such as Gale, Meerschaum lined, they too would have the round logo. The white logo continued on the lower priced Drinkless line. As more lower priced lines came out they would have the white logo. Logos, both round and white were on top of the stem until the late 1940’s, after which they were moved to the side of the stem. Inlaid cloverleafs of both types were in use until about 1980. During that 1937 to 1980 span they were pretty much and indication of retail price point. The upper price points had the round logo and the lower had the white cloverleaf. There are always exceptions to the rule. As an example, lets say some pipes were being made as Flame Grain and the stems had the round logo. Along they way, some flaws may have popped up that would have caused it to be downgraded to say Standard or some that required rustication ( or sandblast) and turned into a Fine Line, so rather than refit the stem, they finished it out with the round logo. Pipes could be down graded but I would say never upgraded, so I don’t think you’d ever see a Flame Grain or a Centennial with a plain white logo. ”

So this Relief Grain was going to start out as a Flame Grain but got downgraded to a Relief Grain because of a flaw.

On to the refurbish.

The bowl had a good amount of cake in it. I could barley stick my pinkie down in it. With a some scrapping and some coarse grit paper i got it down to a nice thin uniformed coat .100_1440 (640x440).jpg

I let the stem soak in some 91% and gave the shank a good cleaning. After the stem soaked for a while i was able to unscrew the female collar from the stinger/tenon.100_1446 (640x478).jpg

I ran a pipe cleaner through the stinger and rigged it across my container of Oxy Clean and warm water to keep the metal out of it as much as possible to prevent corrosion to it while it removed the oxidation from the vulcanite.100_1449 (640x480).jpg

While the stem soaked i cleaned the briar real good with a mild cleaner i use. The rim char was quite bad and took a bit of soaking in alcohol and scrubbing to get rid of.100_1453 (640x480).jpg

After cleaning i gave the briar a good wipe down with mineral oil and screw the collar back in by hand. Once I tighten the stem back in place real good it will lock the collar in. The heat from smoking it a few times will also aide in securing it. No need for any type of glue or epoxy.100_1457 (640x439).jpg100_1458 (640x393).jpg

After taking out the stem from the Oxy Clean bath i gave it another good cleaning and scrubbing with 91% alcohol to remove any Oxy Clean or tar reside on or inside it.100_1461 (640x328).jpg

There was some small sharp teeth marks  around the button i was able to remove with a little heat and filling. The previous owner must have had teeth like a house cat.100_1464 (640x395).jpg

I then gave the file marks a good wet sand with 500 grit and then worked my way up to 2800 grit.I also gave the 4 hole stinger a good going over with 000 steel wool.100_1468 (640x392).jpg

Another good soak with mineral oil over briar and stem.100_1471 (640x400).jpg

After some  stem buffing i applied several coats of  carnauba wax .

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Finished Kaywoodie 76B Relief Grain.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg4b.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9.jpg10.jpg

The stamping’s are a little hard to read from the picture. Its easier to read in person. The Relief Grain was mostly taken off during the blast process.11.jpg

I could still detect a slight ghost in the pipe after it was finished , but a couple of bowls of 5 Brothers straight burley took care of that. Its a great smoke for taking care of a slight ghost but its a pretty strong tobacco so if you don’t like large doses of nicotine, beware. I like it though ,but I’m mostly a straight burley smoker.100_1508 (640x467).jpg

Its a fine smoker and really light weight. I like these smaller long shank  76B’s for flakes and strong tobacco.

Til next time,

Good smokes to you.


Penn Tobacco Co. Bruce Peters Bench Made Coupon Pipe

I have been looking for a nice condition Bruce Peters pipe to add to my coupon pipe collection for a while. I was able to pick up this example for a trade with a friend of mine over at The Dr.Grabow Collectors Forum.1.jpg100_1356 (640x413).jpg100_1358 (640x420).jpg

The pipe is in fine original condition with just some small rim dings and  missing the removable stinger/cleaner. The stem is undamaged and in perfect shape. I am very happy with my trade.

Here is a little background on Bruce Peters pipes.

Bruce Peters was a coupon pipe offered by the Penn Tobacco Co. The pipes were made by HLT ( Henry Leonard & Thomas ) makers of Linkman , Dr.Grabow ,Royalton and so on.

The Penn Tobacco Co. major pipe tobacco was Kentucky Club. In this ad it looks like the man is smoking a Bruce Peters from the stem insignia. The other coupon lines (  Silver Mac Duff, the Vox Pop, and the Broadcaster ) had different ones.kentucky_club_tobacco.jpg

Here is a little bit of history I copied from Pipes Discussion Forum . This was posted back in 2006 by Bradley Owen. It seems Mr. Owen had a collection  of Penn Tobacco Co. coupon pipes and explains the run down on the pipes quite well.

“This pipe is named after Bruce Peters, the Treasurer of the Penn Tobacco Company. According to paperwork with my Bruce Peters, there were four pipes in the line offered by the company: the Bruce Peters, the Silver Mac Duff, the Vox Pop, and the Broadcaster. The Bruce Peters was the top of the line. The pipes were manufactured for Penn by Henry Leonard & Thomas, most well known as the manufacturer of Dr. Grabow pipes.

The Penn Tobacco Company was formed in Wilkes-Barre Pennsylvania on January 1st, 1901 by Russell Uhl and Henry Weigand. Mr. Uhl died April 4th, 1914 when he committed suicide by jumping into the Susquehanna River. (Side-note: Uhl held a number of patents for an all-glass screw-on mason jar top.)Henry Weigand continued to run Penn Tobacco until his retirement. During the 1930’s John H. Uhl was company president. Mr. Weigand died November 15th, 1942 and Penn Tobacco was sold to Bloch Bros. the following year. Among the companies more notable brands are Kentucky Club and Willoughby Taylor. The Wilkes-Barre operation was carried on until 1948, when the entire operation was moved to Wheeling, West VA, headquarters of Bloch Bros.

The paperwork I have with my Bruce Peters and Vox Pop’s both list them as coming from Penn Tobacco of Wilkes-Barre. However, another document I have states that pipes were introduced for sale by Bloch Bros. in 1948. Since the Kentucky Club and other pipe tobacco brands were still being manufactured through the 50’s, it would seem that the Penn Tobacco Company continued to operate as a separate entity, although owned by Bloch Bros.

I believe these pipes could only be purchased as promotional items using coupons from the company’s pipe tobaccos. On the “Certificate of Retail Value” accompanying my Vox Pop, the minimum value is set at $3.50.”

I personally do not have a example of a coupon but i did find this image of a later Bloch Brothers ,Wheeling WV. one. I imagine they are quite similar to the Penn Tobacco Co. coupon.

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On to the pipe cleaning .

I just want to preserver what i have so  I will do as little to the pipe other than cleaning it to keep the originality.

I just gave the pipe a general run of the mill cleaning of pipe cleaners and alcohol. Then i gave the pipe a good rub down with a mild cleaner I use. Scrubbed the rim with a green pad and gave the metal tenon,female collar a good going over with 000 steel wool.100_1364 (640x379).jpg

The bowl had almost no cake so i just gave it a slight sand and wipe down with a paper towel dipped in alcohol.100_1366 (640x456).jpg

I sanded the bowl with some 2000 grit to get the rim dings out best I could.100_1368 (640x385).jpg

Since the stem was in such nice condition i just went over it slightly with some 1200 grit working my way up to 3000 grit being careful not to take off more surface than needs be.100_1371 (640x415).jpg

Gave the pipe and stem a rub down with mineral oil and let it soak in before buffing and wax.

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I wasn’t sure what kind of stinger/cleaner ( HLT pipes always used the term cleaner instead of stinger)  was  used on the pipe so I did a little  Google research.

I found a couple of Bruce Peters Bench Made Lev- O- Lator  models and both had the same type.


Digging through my used stinger/claeners i found a match. I think it came off a unmarked Briarcraft I picked up.


The shank on it was too long and would not seat all the way.4.jpg

So a quick clean up and visit to the grinding wheel was in order.5.jpg

Here is a little trivia for you some might not know. The reason HLT  ( and some other pipe companies) called them cleaners was in case you did not have a pipe tool handy you could use it to scrape old ash and tobacco without banging it on something. That’s why they almost always have a type of spoon shape on the end. They were suppose to also filter and cool down the smoke as well like a regular stinger but served a dual purpose.100_1391 (640x528).jpg

With the cleaner taken care of the pipe is ready for some final buffing and wax.

Finished Bruce Peters Bench Made coupon pipe.

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I did give the bowl a thin carbon coating to help build up new cake quickly.100_1406 (640x483).jpg100_1411 (640x416).jpg100_1410 (640x414).jpg

Pipe is marked Bruce Peters 100_1414 (640x379).jpg

Bench Made/ Imported Briar100_1416 (640x398).jpg

The pipe smokes excellent with a very good draw. Usually on screw in tenon pipes i drill out the shank for improved draw but this one did not need it. The pipe is also of good quality with no visible fills or such.

I just so happen to have picked up 4 ounces of the latest  C&D blend “Bob Bushman”. It reminds me a lot of the discontinued Kentucky Club blends that i smoked but made with high quality leaf. So i am keeping it a old Kentucky Club tin i have and will smoke it my Bruce Peters.

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Til next time,

Good smokes to you.




Restored Amphora X-TRA 815 Coupon Pipe

One of the first pipes i ever refurbished was a rusticated Amphora X-TRA 815 Poker coupon pipe. I still own and smoke it. It’s one of my favorite pokers and i have seen about 20 or so since then for sale on EBAY and various sites. Not long ago i saw  this smooth one  for a “Buy it Now or Best Offer” on EBAY . This was the first smooth one i have seen,so i made a best offer and it was accepted.s-l1600 (640x444).jpg

I have always been fascinated by coupon pipes. Good pipes at a value for the working class Joe to enjoy his OTC tobaccos with, to me was just a great idea. Sadly those days are gone now as there is no way a tobacco company could does this today with any kind of quality briar pipe. They would surely loose money.

Amphora was one of the more successful coupon pipes made. In fact Amphora could not keep up with production for the American market. Dr.Grabow was contracted to make pipes for them.  Any Amphora coupon pipes with the #800 series number was made in Sparta N.C. at the Dr.Grabow factory.

Here is a picture of the coupon for the Sparta made Amphora pipes.The Dr.Grabow models were made from around late 1960’s to late 1970’s , possibly  up into the early 1980’s.


Here is the a coupon for the Denmark models. They are all in the #700 series. I’m not really sure if the pipes were made in house or by a European pipe company.DCpm5xPgz541K7EZ-cHs-A.jpg

The Amphora pipe arrived and seemed to be in really good shape, other than just dirty and a few fills (which i was expecting).100_0940 (640x359).jpg

The worst fill is a long one at the top of bowl.100_0941 (640x455).jpg100_0943 (640x501).jpg100_0947 (640x337).jpg

I fist gave the brair a cleaning  with mild solution of  mild cleaner/water and scrubbed of the rim char with a piece of green pad. The cake was thin so i just ran a piece of sandpaper  in the bowl.

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The owner took good care about keeping their pipe clean .It took very little to clean the shank. Most was just the residue of me sanding the cake.100_0953 (640x389).jpg

I gave the stem a good scrubbing with 91% . As with the shank it was pretty clean.100_0954 (640x339).jpg

There was a few dings on the bowl so i steamed it on a hot iron and a damp rag.100_0958 (640x480).jpg

I sanded the pipe lightly with some 2000 grit to help remove the dings and to also make it easier to hide the fills.100_0961 (640x480).jpg

I mixed up some acrylic paint to cover the fills with. 100_0963 (640x477).jpg100_0969 (640x480).jpg

I painted the fills with a couple of coats with the acrylic , the let it dry.  It will darken up by the time you add finish and wax so i make it a little lighter so as to not leave a big dark spot.

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I mixed up a thin red dye to help blend in a help hide the fills. I applied three thin coats with a cotton ball.100_0976 (640x387).jpg

After that dried i gave the pipe a rub down with mineral oil and a cotton ball. This will pull off excess dye so i add a  extra coat of dye to compensate for this.100_0989 (640x480).jpg100_0982 (640x480).jpg

While the mineral oil soaked in and dried i took the stem out of a  Oxy-Clean warm water  bath it had been soaking in for a couple of hours. I gave it a scrub down with a piece of green pad to remove the oxidation. It was dipped in Ox-Clean and water.100_0990 (640x387).jpg

I then filled some slight tooth marks. I gave the stem a good wet sanding with 400 grit  around file marks and on up to  600- 280o grit on the rest of the stem.100_0994 (640x401).jpg

The bowl and stem is back together with another rub down with mineral oil and inspection. It is ready for some time on the buffing wheel.100_0997 (640x480).jpg

Finished Amphora X-TRA 815100_0998 (640x397).jpg100_0999 (640x404).jpg100_1000 (640x447).jpg100_1002 (640x495).jpg100_1010 (640x525).jpg100_1024 (640x404).jpg100_1013 (640x365).jpg100_1028 (640x477).jpg100_1019 (640x460).jpg100_1022 (640x351).jpg

Giving the pipe its maiden smoke after refurbish  with Amphora Original only seemed fitting. Its a fine smoker. I’m pretty pleased at how it turned out.100_1032 (640x472).jpg

Here is  a picture of both my  Amphora #815’s.100_1034 (640x476).jpg

If you are looking for a good value on a estate pipe these old  Amphora coupon push stems are great ones to acquire.


Til next time,

Good smokes to you.


How I Like To Pack A Pipe

I stumbled on this video last year on You Tube on how to pack a pipe and having been using this method ever since . To me it gives the best pack and smoke out of my pipes, so i thought i would share it.

Give it a try and see what you think.

Til next time ,

Good smokes to you.


My “Holy Grail” Kaywoodie Thorn 7411 Sandblast Push Stem

I have been wanting a pre – war sandblast push stem Thorn billiard for quite a long time and i have finally acquired one. It is one of my “Holy Grail’ pipes. Always out bid on my Ebay attempts i was starting to loose hope. Finding pre-war sandblast pipes on a budget is not easy ,let me tell you.

Shaefer from Vintage pipes knew I was looking for one ,he had spotted one in a pipe lot on Ebay and sent me a link. There was two pictures of the pipe , a side view and one of the stamping’s. From the side view i could barely make out a top shank Kaywoodie club and no metal collar. With no metal collar i was certain it was a push stem. The pipe also looked to be in very excellent shape as well. The stamping was simply 7411 with Kaywooide/Thorn.4.jpg

With no KBB stamp I knew it was a post 1933 and a lack of Drinkless stamp was more indication it was a push stem with no removable four hole stinger. The earlier Thorn’s  had a removable stinger before they were given the screw in stems with non-removable four hole stingers. They carry a Drinkless stamp as well.

Well the pipe lot was over a 100 dollars so i did not want or could afford to buy the lot for one pipe ,so i watched it for a week with no interest or bids on it. I sent the seller a message asking if he would sale the Thorn out of lot and that i would give him a very fair price. Well luckily for me the seller agreed to sale the pipe and for the price i offered. I was ecstatic to say the least.

A few days later the pipe arrived and  it was indeed a push stem in excellent shape with no removable stinger. The blast looked even better in person.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg5.jpg6.jpg

The stem though badly oxidized had no tooth dents it at all, only some minimal chatter.5b.jpg

The 7411 breaks down as follows ,

74    Screw-in Drinkless Kaywoodie, Thorn finish, black vulcanite stem (1930’s)

11    Large billiard    1935-1972

So i knew the pipe was 1935 or later, this one of course is missing the screw in Drinkless and i suspect its from the thin shank as my previous 5407 i posted. I would guess this pipe was made between 1935-1938 . From research on Kaywoodies i have read  they dropped the 4 digit stamping’s around 1938.

The pipe did not take much work to get back into a nice useable condition.

First thing I did was give the outside of the bowl a good scrubbing with a mild cleaner/water solution I use.100_0776 (640x480).jpg

I then gave the inside a good cleaning with alcohol. I also cleaned the rim of stubborn char. The cake was really thin so all i did was give it a good scrape with a regular pipe tool scraper.100_0779 (640x480).jpg

After bowl was clean inside out I gave  a good soak in mineral oil. The color and blast really came alive.100_0785 (640x480).jpg

After about a two hour soak in Oxy Clean/water the oxidation was but gone. I did pull it out periodically and scrub it with a piece of Scotch Brite pad.100_0788 (640x527).jpg

The stem was in such great shape that it took minimal sanding with 1000 and on up too 2800 grit.100_0790 (640x480).jpg

I put a very thin coat of bees wax on the tenon and then gave the whole pipe  a wipe down with mineral oil . Its ready to be wiped with a clean rag and receive a buff and wax.100_0794 (640x462).jpg

After the buff and wax i took some normal inside pictures and to me they just did not do the blast justice. So this morning i took the pipe outside and took some natural light pictures. It was kinda overcast and cloudy but still looks better than inside pictures.

Finished 7411 Thorn.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg3b.jpg4.jpg5.jpg6.jpg7.jpg8.jpg9 (640x501).jpg10.jpg100_0882 (640x408).jpg


I am probably biased but i have looked at a lot of Kaywoodie Thorn pipe pictures and to me this is one of the best original condition Thorn’s I have seen .The blast is also a cut above, it certainly rivals any I have seen. My perseverance has been rewarded so don’t give up on your “Holy Grail “pipe , you may be surprised like I was.

After taking  these pictures i filled up my baccy pouch with some Peter Stokkebye Toasted Burley 312 I have been trying out and gave the pipe its maiden first few smokes along with my morning coffee.100_0884 (640x444).jpg

I was not disappointed. The pipe smokes heavenly.


Til next time ,

Good smokes to you.


Unusual 1930’s Kaywoodie Rusticated 5407 Super Grain/ Thorn?

I saw this pipe come up on Ebay  and was immediately intrigued by it. It was listed as Estate Pipe Kaywoodie Super Grain 5407.KW 5407 (640x640).jpg

I had never seen a Super Grain rusticated like it. I was not familiar with the 54 prefix number as the only Super Grains  i know of are 50 or 51. I also noticed it was a push stem! I knew i wanted the pipe badly and put a good bid on it. In fact it was the top of my budget for a estate pipe. If someone would have bid .25 cents more i would have lost the auction.

I have not been so anxious to get my hands on a pipe in a while. I was literally waiting at the mail box when the pipe came. I was like a kid opening a Red Ryder BB gun at Xmas. Kid’s still want Red Ryder’s BB guns don’t they?  Oh well ,never mind.

The pipe did not disappoint. Used but in excellent shape. The stem even registers perfectly on this 80 year old pipe. The four digit stamping dates the pipe between 1933-1936 but no later than 1938. By 1936 push stems were mostly gone.

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The pipe is also extremely  light.100_0683 (640x454).jpg100_0688 (640x468).jpg

Only issues it had was some tooth marks on the stem.100_0690 (640x565).jpg

Now here is whats odd about the pipe.100_0684 (640x223).jpg

5407 breaks down as follows.

54    Extra large shape, screw in Drinkless Kaywoodie, Thorn finish, black vulcanite stem (1930’s)

07     Large billiard     1927-1972

The pipe is not stamped Thorn but Super Grain. It is not extra large as its a regular 07 size bowl. I was expecting a huge 07 billiard. As you can see its a push stem not a screw in Drinkless. This is the first Super Grain billiard i have ever seen stamped on the bottom of a Kaywoodie. Even the rusticated  Hand Made Super Grain’s i have seen are stamped on side of shank. A 72 Canadian is stamped on top of shank. All Thorn’s i have ever seen were sandblast finish as well.

I did some research and read that a few Thorn’s were rusticated although not many. I did find one on Ebay in Canada . A oval apple with somewhat similar rustication. Its a later two digit with Drinkless and stained red.s-l1600 (1) (640x552).jpg

All the Thorn’s four digits i have seen start with a 73 or 74 like this one. kaywoodies1_zps3a1d959d (580x102).jpg

I tried to find more 54 prefix Thorns or Super Grain’s but i could not find a picture or mention anywhere on the web. I’m assuming its a very uncommon prefix code.

Was it mis stamped?  The Super Grain was definitely stamped before it was rusticated. Is it a Thorn? Is it a Super Grain? Is it both? I dunno, I’m still pondering on it.

It’s a odd stamped pipe,which makes it very unique and cool to me. This is the kind of old American pipe that really gets me going.

I pushed the pipe ahead of my other project pipes and started on it about as soon as i unboxed it.

The cake came out fairly easy  with a dull pocket knife and heavy grit paper.100_0694 (640x480).jpg

I gave the stem a soak in alcohol to get  the greasy film it had on it. I also cleaned out the inside before giving it a soak in Oxy Clean.100_0697 (640x480).jpg

I tried cleaning the rim cake off with my normal green pad and a tooth brush but it was not getting out the crud deep in the rustication. I poured a thin level of alcohol in a container and let the rim soak for a bit.100_0699 (640x480).jpg

I then walked over next door to my brothers and borrowed his outdoor grill brush while he was at work (Shhhhh ….lets keep that between us). I gently rubbed the rim over the wire bristles. Yes, i did clean it before and after i used it100_0703 (640x480).jpg

With the rim crud removed i gave the bowl a good cleaning with mild cleaner/water mix and a brush with clean alcohol. I also gave the shank a good brushing and cleaning.100_0707 (640x480).jpg100_0709 (640x480).jpg

After the grease and grime was removed i gave the bowl a good soak in mineral oil.100_0711 (640x480).jpg

After pulling the stem out of the Oxy Clean i gave it another rinse with alcohol and filed the tooth marks. I filled the deep ones with carbon/vulcanite powder and super glue. I then filed the patches.100_0712-640x4802.jpg

I sanded the repairs with 500  and worked my way up too 1800 grit. The pipe registers so well the I am only going to sand around the shank end as little as possible with 2000-2800 grit. It wont look slick as glass but it wont be over sanded and over buffed. I can always sand and buff it more later if need be.You can’t add original material back after you take it away. Its gone forever.

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With the pipe and stem done i applied some bees wax to the tenon as after cleaning it was a tad loose.I also added a syrup/carbon bowl coating .I applied mineral oil to the bowl and stem to give some life back to the 80 year old briar and vulcanite. After it soaks in and dries its ready for a buff and wax.100_0719 (640x480).jpg

The finished  5407.100_0727 (640x477).jpg100_0729 (640x472).jpg100_0730 (640x480).jpg100_0731 (640x480).jpg100_0732 (640x480).jpg100_0736 (640x480).jpg


The fine lines on the rim are part of the rustication and not from the wire brush.

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I think i figured out why the pipe was made a push stem. Here is the 5407 next to my 07 Super Grain smooth.100_0753 (640x485).jpg

As you can see its not larger at all , in fact it’s a little smaller (the Super Grain is even a smaller three-hole Drinkless). Notice how thin and short the shank is? No way a Drinkless system would fit in there ,especially a four hole stinger. Even a removable stinger would not fit in the shank. Being it was made around the middle of the depression, they were going to use and sale what they could. Wasting as less material as possible. No matter what it ended up stamped or configured.

I think its a very cool pipe and the rustication is very well done. I have been wanting a sandblasted Thorn for a good while but i always get outbid as they go for very good prices. This is kinda my poor mans Thorn in a way and very happy to add it to my collection.

Now for the important question , how does it smoke?100_0755 (640x477).jpg

Well i can honestly say, it smokes awesome ! This is my second push stem Kaywoodie and i can not for the life of me figure out why Kaywoodie did not carry a full time push stem line. I can say this pipe smokes just as well if not better than my Savinelli’s , English and custom made pipes. It’s lighter than most of them to boot making it a very comfortable pipe to smoke.

Til next time,

Good smokes to you.


I found another Thorn rusticated like the 5407 that sold on EBAY. I personally think the 5407 has better quality rustication.

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This one has the correct stamping on it.s-l1600 b(640x360).jpg

90 by the way is ………..90   Medium Canadian, round shank, saddle stem         1936-1955

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Push stem as well.s-l1600 (640x360).jpg

Notice how thin the shank is on this Thorn like the 5407 ? I think its too thin for a four- hole stinger system as well.

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I think that this might be the reason Kaywoodie went to a smaller three- hole Drinkless stinger system eventually as to easily fit in slimmer shanks.


Simple Refurbish of a Kaywoodie Standard 22

Last week a fellow member of the Dr.Grabow Collectors Forum (Ted) sent me a email asking if i would be interested in a Kaywoodie 22 he had. He said i could have it for free of charge. Not looking a gift horse in the mouth i replied ,sure i would gladly take it.

I arrived quickly and after a quick look over i could see it was a excellent condition pipe. Just a good basic cleaning is all the 22 needed.100_0553 (640x480).jpg100_0555 (640x480).jpg100_0559 (640x480).jpg

I have a couple of 22’s in Yello -Bole but none in Kaywoodie so i was glad to add this to my collection.

The 22 shape was made for several years according to my chart.

22    Medium billiard long stem          1931-1972

From the three hole stinger and the feel of the stem i would say this is most likely a 70’s model. Maybe as early as a late 60’s.

Since the cake in the bowl was very thin i left it alone and moved to drilling out the shank with a 3/16 inch drill bit for better airflow.100_0562 (640x480).jpg

I gave the  bowl and stem a good cleaning and removed the rim cake.100_0565 (640x480).jpg

After cleaning i went ahead and gave the chamber a thin coat of syrup/carbon and gave it a rub down with mineral oil. I let the bowl set out in  the hot sun for a couple of hours.This will help the bowl coating dry, the mineral oil to soak in and for the alcohol i cleaned it with evaporate.100_0567 (640x480).jpg

While the bowl soaked in the summer sun i gave the stem a good wet sanding with 1000 grit on up to 2800. The stem had no major tooth marks or such so the sanding did not take long.

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I went ahead and bored out the three hole stinger with a old round file for better airflow. Cleaned off the burs and polished it with 000 steel wool.

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With bowl and stem done i gave it another rub down with mineral oil and gave it one last look over before buff and wax .100_0583 (640x480).jpg

After a quick buff and wax on the wheel the 22 is done.100_0584 (640x474).jpg100_0586 (640x480).jpg100_0587 (640x480).jpg100_0588 (640x480).jpg100_0589 (640x480).jpg100_0591 (640x480).jpg100_0594 (620x640).jpg100_0595 (640x467).jpg100_0599 (640x338).jpg

The 22 is a great little smoker. I’ll use it for my Dark Fired Kentucky blends as large bowls tend to turn bitter after a long smoke. I’ve already put a couple of bowls of  PS Amsterdam through it and it delivered a fine smoke.100_0604 (640x470).jpg

Thank you Ted for the Kaywoodie ill enjoy it often.

Til next time ,

Good smokes to you.


Improving A Kaywoodie Relief Grain 51

I saw this Kaywoodie Relief Grain 51 on Ebay while i was searching for another pipe.s-l1600 (640x480).jpg

Being a fan of the 51 shape i went ahead and bid on  it. It looked in excellent shape. I have noticed that some Relief Grains are stained red like this one. The ones i have are a darker natural , which i prefer over the stained ones.

The pipe arrived a few days later and was pleasantly surprised to find the pipe had not even really been broken in. Maybe one or two bowls had been smoked in it. The 51 shape was not made past 1966 making the pipe at least 49 years old.

51   Medium billiard, short stem                                                1932-1966

Being a three hole stinger it’s from mid 1950’s to 1966.

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I was disappointed though that  the shape was not closer to my 1930’s 5051 push stem .100_0474 (640x477).jpg

This one was longer and just not as just not as pleasing a shape as the 5051 to me. Still a nice pipe and being clean and nearly unsmoked i went ahead and packed a bowl in it and tried the 51 out.

Well to be honest the pipe smoked AWFUL. The draw was horrible, it smoked hot and wet. It also gurgled like a catfish with a hairball. I couldn’t even finish a whole bowl without my tongue threatening to jump out of my mouth. I know a pipe will not smoke good until broken in and i have broke in several new pipes, but this one was just evil.

From experience i know that drilling out the shank on a three hole stinger Kaywoodie can  improve the draw quite a bit.

So i drilled out the shank with a 3/16 inch drill bit. How i drill out my shanks is i hold the bit in a channel lock pliar and screw the bowl onto the bit by hand .Taking it slow and easy. I also pull it bit out every  half inch or less to and remove shavings and debris allowing it not to build up and put less stress on the shank during drilling.

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I drill it to the bowl being careful when i go through as to not put deep scratches in the chamber.100_0482 (640x480).jpg

I went one step further and decided to modify the stinger. Not having small enough metal bits handy i used a old metal round file. I bored out all three holes.100_0483 (640x499).jpg

I then cleaned off the burrs with some 500 grit paper.100_0485 (640x480).jpg100_0487 (640x480).jpg

As you can see in this picture next to a unmodified three hole stinger the stinger now has more airflow. The filed one is on the right ,obviously.100_0499 (640x264).jpg

Checking the draw after the drilled shank and modified stinger i found it was GREATLY improved.

I decided to go ahead and strip off the red dye and make it a darker natural color. I stripped it with acetone and 91% alcohol.100_0494 (640x480).jpg

After the dye was removed i gave a rub down with mineral oil to help bring out the natural color.100_0498 (640x480).jpg

I went ahead and gave the stem a quick  wet sand with 1000 on up to 2800 grit paper.I also polised the stinger with some 000 steel wool.100_0506 (640x334).jpg

With stem and bowl back together i gave them both a another rub down with mineral oil to remove any lingering dust before buff and wax.100_0507 (640x480).jpg

After a quick buff and wax on my wheel the 51 is done.

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I went ahead and gave the bowl a syrup/carbon bowl coating to help make breaking it in easier.100_0538 (640x480).jpg100_0541 (640x480).jpg100_0549 (640x480).jpg100_0543 (640x318).jpg

I packed a bowl in it after the modifications and gave it another try.100_0551 (640x480).jpg

I can not stress how much BETTER the pipe smokes now. It’s like a different pipe. The draw is easy and effortless. It smokes much ,much cooler and drier. It will only get better  with time and the many bowls i plan to smoke in it.

Til next time,

Good smokes to you.



Linkman/Dr.Grabow “Special” #4901 Refurbish

I picked up this Linkman/Dr.Grabow “Special” Italian Briar 4901 off Ebay , beating off one other bidder. Other than being dirty it looked in excellent condition with nice stamping’s. Being a propeller emblem Linkman/Dr.Grabow i knew it was a pre 1944.s-l1600 (640x479).jpg

I had been looking for a nice #01 shape and recently let a push stem #01 “Olde London” slip through my fingers on Etsy. I’m still kicking myself for that one so i made sure to go after this one.

The pipe arrived a few days later and there was no big surprises. Although i did think the #01 was a large billiard but it turns out its a medium sized billiard. 5 1/2 inches long  x  1 5/8 inch tall is the dimensions.100_0388 (640x480).jpg100_0389 (640x480).jpg100_0392 (640x480).jpg

Upon inspecting the pipe it had been well smoked but not beat up. The shank was completely plugged as well as the stem.

I got rid of all the old cake with a dull knife and heavy grit paper.100_0395 (640x480).jpg

I ran a drill bit through the shank to unclog it.100_0397 (640x480).jpg

The pipe was VERY  dirty! Did i mention the pipe was DIRTY?

After several soaks ( changing to clean  alcohol  three times ) i finally got the stem cleaned as well as the shank and bowl. It took several tries with bristle cleaners before i could get a pipe cleaner to pass through the stem. I had well over a hour just cleaning  the inner workings of the pipe. The pipe was so clogged that the stem was under clocked about a 1/8 of a turn. I had to break out a extra can of elbow grease on this step.

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I next tackled the rim char with a piece of green pad soaked in Oxy-Clean and warm water.100_0403 (640x480).jpg100_0408 (640x480).jpg

I wiped down the outside of the bowl with a paper towel sprayed with mild detergent and water to remove the grimy surface.100_0409 (640x480).jpg

I went over the bowl with a piece of 2500 grit paper and mineral oil. Staying away from the stamping’s.100_0412 (640x480).jpg

I filed out some minor chatter and gave the stem a good wet sanding. 500 grit over the file marks and whole stem with 600-2500 grit.100_0414 (640x480).jpg100_0416 (640x480).jpg

Before buff and wax i wiped the stem and bowl down with mineral oil and let it soak in.100_0420 (640x480).jpg

A buff and wax on the wheel and she is done.1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg100_0425 (640x480).jpg100_0426 (640x480).jpg100_0427 (640x480).jpg100_0428 (640x480).jpg

For a Linkman the walls of the chamber are a little thicker than normal.

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Bottom side of stinger.100_0440 (640x480).jpg

Linkman’s had several stamping’s on their pipes so lets break them down.

Left side

Linkman’s/Dr.Grabow……the Linkman was dropped somewhere around 1944 . They also dropped the propeller and went to the spade emblem on the stem.

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Right side

4901   Special/Italian Briar………….01 is the shape number.

SPECIAL (or Special Italian Briar) post-1937, begins with 43, 49, 1937 or previous, may not be marked as such, begins with 43, 44, 49 Series 43 = Natural Finish (DG), c1937. Series 44 = Dark Finish (DG), c1937. Series 49 = Walnut Finish (DG), c1937.

To be honest i could not see any finish on the pipe as it looks natural to me.

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Pat.No. 1896800

PAT. NO. (over) 1896800, block lettering, 3/8” wide, 1/8” tall, c1933-42

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From my decipher of the stamping’s the pipe was made roughly between 1937-1942.

I have smoked a couple of bowls in the pipe now and find it a excellent, cool smoking pipe. Of all the non-removable stinger pipes i find the Linkman’s the best smokers. I find the old school burley’s burn the best in them too.100_0457 (640x470) (2).jpg

Til next time,

Good smokes to you.


Refurbish and Re-dye of a Kaywoodie 07 Fine Line

I picked up this Fine Line in a three pipe lot some time ago. It has been waiting  patiently for some attention in my box of projects. It is not a very pretty pipe but i figured maybe i could help it out well enough to make it a beater/work pipe to use regularly with my favorite old codger burley blends.

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I had about forgot about the pipe. I was looking for another 07  Kaywoodie  to give my Super Grain 07 some rest time. I really like the size, shape and weight of the 07 and smoke my Super Grain very often. In fact too often. Scanning Ebay  for another it dawned on me about the Fine Line 07. So i dug out the old pipe and got to work on it.

The heavy cake came out easy with my dull pocket knife i use for pipe cake and some heavy grit sandpaper.100_0322 (640x480).jpg

I gave the bowl a good cleaning and cleaned all the rim char out of the carving.100_0323 (640x465).jpg100_0325 (640x480).jpg

I then drilled the shank out with a 3/16 inch drill bit. Drilling out the shank helps the Kaywoodie three-hole stingers give a MUCH better smoke in my experience. I also cleaned and polished the female threads with a small round file wrapped with 000 steel wool.

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The stem was not heavily oxidized so all it needed was a rub down with Bar Keepers and a basic cleaning.100_0345 (640x480).jpg

I never thought they gave the Fine Line a dark enough finish. I think line or wirecarved pipes need to be black like a Dr.Grabow Starfire or Belvedere wirecarved models. Wanting to re-dye it black i stripped off the old finish with acetone and alcohol.100_0329 (640x480).jpg

I mixed up some black dye and applied several coats . Letting it dry between.100_0356 (640x480).jpg

While the bowl was drying i sanded the stem and cleaned up the stinger with steel wool.100_0360 (640x480).jpg

Once the stem and bowl were done i put them back together and gave it a good rub down with mineral oil.100_0362 (640x480) (2).jpg

A little buff and wax on the wheel she is done. I think it looks  much better full on black.100_0368 (640x479).jpg100_0369 (640x480).jpg100_0371 (640x480).jpg100_0372 (640x480).jpg100_0373 (640x480).jpg100_0374 (640x480).jpg100_0376 (640x480).jpg100_0377 (640x480).jpg100_0378 (640x472).jpg

Fine Lines were made between 1956 and 1976 on and off. The 07 large billiard shape was made between 1927-1972. This puts the pipe between 1956-1972.

I have been smoking the pipe for a couple of days now and  it is a great smoker. 100_0382 (640x473).jpg

Fine Lines are one of the least desirable of the Kaywoodie models and since i was gonna use this as a regular beater/work pipe i was tempted to cut the stinger on it. The Super Grain 07 i have came with a cut stinger. It smokes great and is easily cleaned after smoking, but this smokes so well now that I am gonna just leave it as is.

Til next time ,

Good smokes to you.